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My favourite place in Mallorca: Esporles

Mallorca-Street

What to say about Mallorca that has not already been commented on in some article? Being from this wonderful island, I could give you an infinite list of favourite places or sites that have a certain meaning in my life, because they are part of a memory, because I love eating there or because it is something I used to do with my parents as a child…It’s typical, isn’t it? Well, today I’m going to talk about a town that hardly shows in the guides, a town located in a valley that is not famous for any touristic event or does not stand out for having great tourist attractions like for example Valldemossa, that everyone knows from the incursion that the famous Polish musician and composer Chopin and his companion George Sand had there. I’m talking about my hometown, Esporles.Mallorca-Street-Scene

My parents arrived here in the late ’70s. They got married and bought a small flat near the centre (well, the village isn’t very big. Its inhabitants do not reach 5000 people today so imagine 50 years ago). Then I arrived. Imagine, my parents, both from the peninsula and me with a Basque name. The people of the island still retain that hint of “alien” reaction. Even though I was born and raised here, as a child I had to suffer some ridicule for my peninsular origins. Nowadays, as an adult and speaking Majorcan, I don’t have those problems anymore, but it is known that children are cruel. I grew up, went to college and got a master’s degree in sustainable tourism. Much to my regret and with a stable job, I left my hometown and came to live in the capital, Palma, that is only 20 Km far from there. My town was a little too small and I needed some more movement.

When I go to visit my mother, who still lives in the same house where I grew up, I keep going through the city centre… the “passeig (promenade), the “placeta” (small square), the church… remind me of all those evenings I spent playing with my friends and the village parties I loved so much and that made me feel a little older and independent when I was still a child.a statue of a church

El paseo o “passeig”  shelters several bars that I love; my favourite is the Passeig Bar which takes the name of the site itself, where there serve some delicious llonguets and the best apple pie in the world. A llonguet is a typical Majorcan bread which you can make all kinds of sandwiches with. The most typical is the sobrassada, camaiot and Mahonese cheese.4

On Saturday mornings there is a farmers market in Esporlas. The florists, the fruits of “pagés”(farmers), cold meats and clothes sellers, crowd above the promenade and you will be privileged if you find a table on the terrace of the Passeig Bar to make vermouth while you watch the passersby as they go up and down with their shopping baskets to overflowing with fresh fruits and vegetables The waiter, Lucas, is a waiter of those of the former; attentive, kind and with an energy worthy of someone of his profession. If you have the opportunity to go, do not hesitate and if it is a good day, take advantage of the wonderful terrace.Shopping-in-Paella-Market

Speaking of llonguet…, there used to be a few bakeries in town. The most significant for me was “Ca’s Currot” since “Currot” was my godfather (may he rest in peace). His pies were among the best you could find and I remember that for himself, he had a wood-burning oven in his house that he lit to bake both biscuits and cakes as well as typical Mallorcan dishes such as “porcella” (suckling pig) on Sundays. He was generous as the most and always opened his house to his friends and neighbours. He was an excellent baker and cook and will be greatly missed.

Today, two bakeries still survive: Ca n’Olivaret and Ca Sa Camena. Both are packed in the morning and offer a variety of bread, cakes and scones, both sweet and savoury. I recommend that you try the apricot cake and sobrasada in the first and the goat cheese coca with the rocket in the second. Uf! Just think about it, my guts are starting to roar!

Mallorca-Food

My favourite days of the year of adolescence were the days of the street parties. Music and dancing two minutes away from my house and my parents didn’t care that something might happen to me, of course. The village is very safe. I loved going to concerts and the atmosphere that formed on the nights of summer and holidays. Normally, the town is quite quiet, even too much for my taste, but at the end of June, for the feast of San Pedro, our patron, the streets get flooded with joy and laughter. On the passeig, they put on what we called “coqueres”, the stands where they sold toys and pieces of coconut, the paper colours decorated the trees and there were lights everywhere. Every now and then, you would meet people you knew to greet and decide to get lost in the crowd to get to the stage where the band played Queen and La Mosca covers.

Another day that I loved, and it’s still crazy, is “La Fira Dolça” or the fair of the sweet. On the first Sunday of every October, at 10 o’clock in the morning, a fair dedicated exclusively to sweet products begins: cakes, bread, chocolates, honey, nougats… everything you can imagine. I remember when I had not yet come of age, I invited my best friend to sleep to my place, the next day, we got up early and be the first to delight the palate with a good breakfast market. We had a great time!Spain_Mallorca_Ensaïmada-typical-dessert

To burn all that sugar and if you like to walk, there is a trail that starts at Esporlas and takes you to the village of Banyalbufar. It is about 2.5h hike, which is not much for someone who is used to walk and the views are very worthwhile. The Correu Trail begins in Esporlas and passes by “La Granja”. “La Granja” is a typical Mallorcan manor house from the 18th century located in the middle of the Sierra de Tramuntana. Between landscapes and fields, this museum houses the typical decorations of the time and also some farm animals. It is ideal for children to get to know a little more deeply the culture of that time and how the mansions of the landlords functioned. I remember going as a child and playing in the beautiful gardens and even attending communions and weddings on that site. The place is spectacular and I will tell you that my favourite rooms were the children’s playroom where you can see an indecent quantity of wooden toys, dollhouses and dolls, and the other room that I was crazy about was the dungeons. The various torture machines and the cells, where I imagine they locked up another disobedient rogue, are still exposed.

a wooden bench in a garden

If we keep talking about mountains, there is another excursion that I think is great and I have to repeat it again: the excursion to the Hermitage of Maristel la. This hermitage is situated on top of one of the mountains that surround the village. There is one day a year that all the people go up to this hermitage and make paellas, roasted suckling pigs and other meals to share. It is an event that I remember with much affection because you can imagine who was the Master Paellero, together with my father. Haha! The views from the Sacred Heart are amazing. You can see the full valley and play with kids where is which building. 

To conclude, I will say that Esporlas is perfect to form a family: it is quiet, children can walk to and from school, the school is very cool and fun activities are done and in general it is very safe. In addition, it is very close to Palma, 5 minutes from the university and also from the sea, just 15 minutes from the coast by car. So it’s perfect for you if you are working in Palma and want to live in a quiet place full of life.

If you want to know a little more about my hometown, Mallorca Urban Adventures offers a hiking tour that runs along the Correu road and also includes typical scones as a picnic. ¡ So you know! Don’t hesitate for a moment.

Custom Tours

Love the look of our Mallorca tours, but feel like customising them to make exactly the tour you're looking for?

Love the look of our Mallorca tours, but feel like customising them to make exactly the tour you're looking for?

Custom Tours

Love the look of our Mallorca tours, but feel like customising them to make exactly the tour you're looking for?

Experience the Countryside with Farmers

Discover the countryside with farmers and taste the fresh products you picked yourself! Immerse into the fields and inhale the…

Discover the countryside with farmers and taste the fresh products you picked yourself! Immerse into the fields and inhale the pure air in the countryside surrounded by fruit trees.

Experience the Countryside with Farmers

Discover the countryside with farmers and taste the fresh products you picked yourself! Immerse into the fields and inhale the pure air in the countryside surrounded by fruit trees.

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Discover the unique corners of Mallorca as we take you on a hiking tour like no other! Picturesque villages with…

Discover the unique corners of Mallorca as we take you on a hiking tour like no other! Picturesque villages with views, natural beauty...

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